Quest for the Perfect Pizza
Quest for the Perfect Pizza
I began my quest for the perfect home baked pizza in 1990. After several failed attempts that produced burnt crust or gooey centers, I was certain that I would never be able to produce a great pie at home. Fortunately I was set on the right path towards pizza nirvana. While on vacation in a northern California coast town, my wife and I stumbled onto a quaint little family run pizza joint. The pizza was fantastic with great crust and creative toppings. I asked the owner what the trick was to producing such a masterpiece. He answered with the standard "If I tell you I'll have to kill you". After downing another bottle of wine and sharing with him my challenges in pizza making, He invited me back to his kitchen. "Heat" he explained, "was the key to a successful pie". His oven was fired up over 600 degrees. The type of heat was important too. I left his kitchen with a list of things that I needed to get in order to produce a decent pizza in my own kitchen.
When I returned home I purchased a large, thick, rectangular pizza stone for my oven. I also picked up a good wooden pizza piel along with other specialty tools. It wasn't long until I was turning out great pizza in my own kitchen. Pizza partys became a weekly event. I experimented with several different dough and sauce recipes until I was happy with the results. For years I was content with the pizza that I was able to turn out. Friends and family were happy too. However, my passion was about to lead me down a new path.
Several years ago I had introduced a good friend to the art of pizza making. Like me, he was soon on a quest of his own. Growing up in New York, he wanted to recreate the perfect New York style pie that he remembered as a kid. The pizza that I was creating had a definite California flare with a thicker crust while the pie that my friend was striving for was thin and chewy. Achieving the perfect east coast style pizza was not an easy task. The most common factor in producing such a pie was the oven. Again, the heat was the key. Most authentic pizzerias were using a brick oven that was fired by wood or coal. We found that all of our favorite pizzas from all over the country came from a brick oven. We both decided that we would build a brick oven of our own some day. We researched many different styles and oven designs. We even checked out the oven at Lombardi's, Americas first pizzaeria, while traveling to New York together .
My opportunity to build my oven finally came during the construction of our new home in 2004. I designed my back yard to include an outdoor kitchen, equipped with a comercial size wood fired brick oven. My oven is based on an old world Italian design that is shaped like an igloo. The inside of the oven is approximately six feet deep by four feet wide. I have included a pictorial history of the construction process on this site. I finished the oven with decretive stone, hand distressed wooden tembers, travertine tiles and a copper roof. I couldn't be happier with the results.
This oven gets HOT! Well over a thousand degrees. Pizzas are done in less then three minutes. It's like an old world microwave. The oven is not just for cooking pizza. It produces a moist heat that is perfect for baking artisan breads and roasting juicy meats. I baked the most delectable turkey for Thanksgiving this past year. I also use it as a slow smoker too, producing fantastic ribs and brisket. Yes, it also produces the "perfect home baked pizza"!
This year I hope to make Pain de Campagne shaped as pain de epi for the Thanksgiving table. I did a run-through to practice the cuts....
The one in the middle fit on my baking stone, the other did not- so I cut that one in two. Next time I will make skinnier baguettes before cutting and will probably make 3. Little individual epi rolls would be cute too.
The one in the middle also went a little long in the oven...but I'll say I was going for a more "european bake".
I've become somewhat obsessed lately with Durum flour. It adds such a sweet, buttery flavor to the bread, which is good- because then I don't add butter when I have slice after slice of this bread!
The boule on the left is the sourdough with durum. The loaf on the right is a vermont sourdough (a la Hammelman's formula). The scoring pattern didn't quite turn out as planned...anyway, the percentage of durum flour in this particular boule came to about 15%. That's only because I am rationing out my durum flour until I can find a less expensive source :-) Otherwise I would have it at about 25%.
When I feed my firm starter, I take the "waste" and make a teeny-tiny little sourdough boule- it's so cute and fun to make because it's so small. It's also a good one because I bake it the same day I mix; skipping the overnight retardation step (forfeiting more flavor, I know, but sometimes it's nice to not have to wait). I think the formula ends up:
25g firm levain
130g bread flour
20g durum flour
103g water
3g sea salt
I baked this with the "magic bowl" method, same as for the loaves above. But for some reason, due to the size, it doesn't come out with much of a crust. It's more thin and chewy instead of thicker and well, crustier. Still good though. Perfect size for 2 people! Okay, perfect size for one person to eat- by themselves.....
The small size is also nice for experimenting with different additions/ formulas. For instance, I attempted a chocolate cherry sourdough (which turned out really yummy) and didn't want to waste the cherries and the time if it wasn't going to taste good. Now that I know it does, I will make a larger loaf.
Continuing the theme of using leftover starter:
This morning I added 3 ounces each of flour and water to 3 ounces of starter. This evening I used 3 ounces to make a preferment for tommorow's bread. I retained 2 ounces of starter, fed it and put it in the refrigerator.
The rest of the starter I mixed with Bisquick until I had a "drop biscuit" like consistancy. Plopped it onto the spider and smoothed it out with the back of a wet spoon. I put it straight into the oven at 450. The main purpose was to have the biscuit to make bread pudding (see off topic post if interested) but it wouldn't do not to test it before going to all that trouble.
A little butter and orange marmalade for me and grape jelly for my wife. It was truely delicious. The crust was nice and crispy.


i was watching better homes and gardens last night and saw fast ed make the nicest sweet bread. you can watch the video on the yahoo 7 site. he made cinnamon babka. you can also find a beautiful potato foccacia on the same site made by karen. i found these two recipes wonderful and can't wait to try them.
http://au.video.yahoo.com/network/100000090
you can find it under fast ed's food or just type in cinnamon babka in the search section.
would love to know what you all think of these videos
i do not have a kitchen-aid type bread mixer. however, i do have a bread machine that i really like and a have a food processor.
is there any way i can make the breads on this site using the bread machine &/or food processor.
i am unable to knead at this time due to a severe right wrist distal radius fracture that is less than 1 yr old.
i would appreciate any suggestions.
thanks, claudia




























